Dondon

Taking a seat at the counter of Dondon, an izakaya in Shimogyo Ward's Nishi-Shichijo district, the natural starting point is the yakitori, grilled fragrant and glossy over the coals with a well-regarded savory-sweet tare sauce. Skewers come off the grill succulent and tender, with items like the softly textured chicken liver delivering deep, satisfying flavor. Washing down piping-hot skewers in brisk succession with a frosty mega-mug of draft beer or a crisp whisky highball captures the unhurried appeal of an everyday neighborhood pub.

Beyond deep-fried skewers like kushiage and kushikatsu, the chalkboard specials hung inside are equally worth exploring. Offerings lean generously toward fresh seafood and savory drinking snacks, featuring vibrant horse mackerel sashimi, tender chicken gizzard tossed with scallions, fragrant sardine heshiko (a traditional salt-and-rice-bran fermented delicacy), and freshly fried horse mackerel fillets, giving diners plenty of room to shape the meal around whatever sounds best that evening.

The dining room features a counter of around 10 seats with a direct view of the kitchen, alongside sunken horigotatsu seating in the back where small groups can settle in comfortably. The atmosphere is easygoing and allows smoking, while the kitchen turns out reasonably priced plates at a steady clip. Operating from 18:00 in the evening every day except Thursday, the restaurant stays open until 0:00 on Wednesdays and until 2:00 the following morning on other operating nights, making it a reliable stop for late suppers and casual nightcaps alike.